america, onmyplate, washington dc | No Comments | August 12th, 2009

A cup of coffee is a marvelous thing with its luxurious taste, equalising aura, and built-in performance boosts. Whether you’re sipping a cafe au lait, making your way through a flat white, savouring a cappucino, or waiting for a double shot half-caff mocha latte with soy milk, the thousands of different coffee permutations make it the stuff of legends that offer instant inspiration. Without such coffee innovation we wouldn’t get the espresso, or the mint mocha chip ice cream variety, or the tiramisu. It seems to me quite fitting then that such an incredible substance warrants its own, separate location for consumption.

Given the seemingly universal appeal of coffee, it comes as no surprise that coffee shops are also magical places. Every time I find myself amongst old friends, we always meet up at one of the numerous local coffee shops for half price cake night and a bottomless cup of the house blend. I’ve met up with business partners and employers at several corner coffee spots and often failed to keep my poor tongue unburnt in my attempts to keep up. I cannot tell you how many of my first dates have been for a multi-hour cup of coffee and perhaps slice of pie or how many times I’ve gone there to get some work done by my lonesome. Nowadays coffee shops are becoming synonymous with internet access, clean bathrooms, cheap refills, free outlets, and indie hipster lounge music. Yet the spirit of the coffee shop remains untarnished.
There a few universal givens in a coffee shop anywhere, anytime. The longer it takes to prepare, the better it usually tastes. There will be comfy chairs for you to sprawl all over, and though you may have to fight for it, enough casual courtesy to imply you can safely use the toilet without worrying about someone usurping your seat. Maybe the beverage menu is large, maybe it’s small. Maybe there’re fancy drinks on it or discerning descriptions about where each blend is from and what its defining Charactersitics are. Perhaps it’s just a four-item list handwritten and slightly smeared on a chalkboard reading “Coffee, Decaf, Espresso, Hot Chocolate, 2.50/e.” Maybe your coffee house has some quirks, say a series of beat-up bookshelves filled with take-one-leave-one used classics, or a stack of old-school board games you haven’t played since Timmy Borden’s 11th birthday party. But it will always have a strong cup of coffee waiting for you, and if you’re lucky a spot in the shade and a barista that knows your name and favourite orders by heart.

Regardless of your agenda when you walk into the coffee shop, the characters are the same everywhere. There’s always some guy on his mobile or laptop talking loudly enough to annoy everyone who hasn’t already tripped over his power cable. The homeless guy in the corner who refuses to give up his table is inevitable, as is the seemingly endless and grating laugh of the girl on an awkward date. Somehow, the place still manages to feel serene. Maybe it’s the anonymity granted by holding a book or newspaper, or the obliging space you receive the moment you put on your headphones and open your notebook You could call it social etiquette, or you could call it self-involvement, but I think coffee houses have their own entirely separate set of rules of engagement.
It’s quite remarkable when you think about it, how thirty or so people gather at one place at one time, yet rarely acknowledge one another in this space. Coffee houses thrive on the assumption that everyone has something else to do and somewhere else to be. Whether you’re that guy on his bluetooth headset yammering away in line or if you’re that girl smoking and talking about why Hemmingway was a fascist and you’ll show the world just as soon as you finish your novel, if you’re that mum who’s just stopped in for a morning beverage before going about her day, or if you’re that intern that just popped down the street to take a brake from all the interoffice politics forced on him. We’re all in transition.

So the coffee house, the protector of the bohemian and the facilitator of the businessman alike, is nothing more than a halfway house, a layover for fuel in a world of thesis deadlines, skype calls, reading lists, and chatty mates. It’s an empty space for us to fill with our beverage orders yes, but with our plans for the future as well. With our word, our aspirations, our next ten-minute action plan. It’s a break from space and time where we focus on old-world values: genuine relationships with other people, creative development, intellectual debate and curiosity, hard work that results in progress instead of procrastination. So it’s a halfway house for cultural values too, a meeting point of the old and the new, of the traditional practices and the new models. After all, coffee shops have been around for what seems like eons, and when we’re told that democracy was forged in a coffee shop, that masterpieces were penned among a smattering of empty cups, that revolutions were born on the kinds of fourtops and twotops I use every week, I have no problem picturing it. Coffee shops are blank canvases, which is where they get their power, but they’re also meeting points and by nature turnpikes that can either turn you around or spit you right back out the way you came. They’re trickier than we give them credit for.

I spent my first afternoon wandering aimlessly around Adams Morgan this past weekend, and after browsing the menus of the scores of coffee shops the neighbourhood has to offer, it occurred to me that the loss of adequate coffee shop culture — the dearth of oversized armchairs, the wrong kind of music, and no idiosyncrasies in sight — was a larger factor in how lost I felt in Los Angeles than I’d given credit to. I was lucky enough to come of age in a land abundant with choice coffee spots: Artiste by the grassy Millenium Park where we played oh so many games of Ultimate Frisbee and perused the Menil Collection, Empire with its gourmet brunches and “customer of the week” competition to win free coffee, Brazil’s patio imbued with so much ambiance it was hard not to spend hours at a time there, Agora and her smoky second floor that was well worth braving for the free live jazz on Fridays and bluegrass on Tuesdays. I had no shortage of coffee houses, tea shoppes, and boba/juice bars just down the street from me, and until I was deprived of the space, I came to see how a vegetarian sandwich option or mismatching cups and saucers could repurpose my work with more zeal than hacking at it anywhere else ever could. When the conditions are right, I am unstoppable.
I don’t need much; I don’t need ultra-fancy furniture or uber-hip lighting. I need a good cup of hot coffee or tea and a decent place to sit. I was instantly comforted by the volume of such places as I walked just a few blocks into the district. The mere presence of such establishments tells me worlds about the surrounding residents, namely their values. Tryst cafe and coffee shop was packed at 15:00 on a Saturday, and now matter how long I had to search for a seat, I was pleased that having this halfway house, this meeting place, this space to let your social relationships and private aspirations blossom is not just important, it’s culturally vital. It’s not only having the space to reflect, discuss, and nourish our stomachs and souls alike, but it’s how many people used this space, in Tryst and elsewhere down the block. The magic of coffee shops is here, and it is indeed universal, making the coffee house culture just one more reason why I fit so well in the DC Metro area.







