Most Western sources reinforce their own dogma.
One explanation for the Japanese proclivity towards long lives and outlying health is the quantity of calories they consume. True, the Japanese eat a third fewer calories as Americans on average, but that’s only an explanation if you believe the Calories In:Calories Out balance is to blame for weight gain and loss.
I don’t. The science is far from compelling; in practice creating caloric deficits does nothing for weight loss in trial patients or for their well-being, even if it does extend the life of lab rats. The logic isn’t sound either, since the imbalance could easily be a symptom of an underlying cause, not the cause itself. It seems nice and tidy at first, and how convenient it is to blame the overweight for their behavioural choices. Americans, the argument goes, are fat because we eat too much and exercise too little. The Japanese ostensibly are not because they eat less and exercise more. Except that’s not how it works. It isn’t how it works for malnourished populations who don’t eat as many calories but still have high rates of obesity. It isn’t how it works for middle-class marathon runners either and it certainly isn’t how it works for me. I have a particularly memorable experience with the relationship between exercise and appetite debunking the theory that began with a 5am bus ride.
There was only one bus to the boathouse a day, and only one from it, and the former left at the butt crack of dawn. Most of the girls on the rowing crew with cars got to sleep an extra half hour or so. Those of us enslaved to the LA local bus system had to hoof it across an ominous campus every morning fifteen minutes before sunrise, in case the captain did a head count and forgot to include the novice team, as often was the case. The ride to the boathouse was a form of team bonding in itself, and while I may have enjoyed practice, I blew hot and cold with regards to the sport. Of course, it didn’t help I was the 9th shy of an 8-man boat, essentially a late-season understudy whose chances of seeing water at a meet were slim to none given my teammates’ dedication. They were pictures of discipline. I wilted in their shadow.
I also had other things on my mind. Crew was a sporting hobby for me, not the sole reason I went to university. The distinction all but extinguished the fire under my harbour-soaked bum. You’ve got to give the other girls credit: fear of losing your scholarship and being sent home to whatever fate lies on your family’s yam farm in back home in Eastern Europe is a powerful motivator, thus I appeared to be the only teammate to struggle with coach’s personalised diet plan. Of course, the other girls had calorie-restricted diets. I, as the only 100pounder fool enough to be a rower, was given a 5,000 calorie diet.
I’m sure many women dream of this very situation. Thanks to 1900 calorie burning, 4 hour long, daily erg sessions, our division one trainer mandated a midnight milkshake regimen. I was encouraged to frequent all-you-can-eat joints in between my four daily meals at the athletic dining hall in the hopes that I wouldn’t waste away. It sounds awesome and the sight of a girl barely past five feet shoveling down three puddings while my muay thai mate looked on enviously was admittedly one of my finer moments. Every other moment, however, wasn’t awesome at all. It was freaking work.
The reality of a 5kCal diet is much less glamourous than you’re imagining. Have you ever tried to eat triple your government suggested caloric intake? I promise it entails significantly more work than play, mostly in the form of not undoing all your good work as you walk home or finding the will to shove fully loaded bagels down your gullet whilst in the middle of rowing a 10k scrimmage. In fact, staring down a deep dish veggie pizza, I was about to swear off food entirely if it weren’t for my then boyfriend’s gentle coaxing. While he was faithfully accompanying me to the ‘cross campus Denny’s so I could make my daily calorie quota, he gained two stone. I, on the other hand, managed a measly two pounds. I got increasingly desperate. The other girls would tempt me by promising to vow in front of the coach I finished that box of Lucky Charms all by my lonesome if only I would let them have a few handfuls off the books? We won’t tell if you don’t. My lab partner in game design class, conveniently also the hardest worker on the team, would help me whittle down piles of gummy bears as we worked out code. In the end, I had to quit the team for losing too much weight.
The maths didn’t make sense then any more than they do now. The team medic was just as baffled. How does a squirt of a girl who only burns 3,400 calories a day, 4,000 calories at most, eat an extra 1,200 calories of pure rubbish and not gain weight? Am I just metabolically blessed? Maybe. But if I couldn’t gain body mass then, I can’t lose it now. If creating a positive or negative calorie imbalance truly impacted the way we store fat and burn energy, why didn’t creating an extreme imbalance during my tenure on the crew team do squat? For me at least, it’s obviously more complicated.
Part of the problem is in the name itself. We call them lifestyle diseases because they’re new and they’re only popping up in certain countries as products of industrialised life. Any populations studies — the China Study, the Seven Countries studies, even the Okinawan institute’s treatise on aging — are at best observational studies, at worst propaganda. A population produces statistics based on a combination of genetics, cultural choices in lifestyle, and diet. You can’t isolate the variables easily and even when you can, the difference between the content of a culture’s food and it’s context is multifaceted. So far no one’s bothered to prove any causal relationships between, say, rice and longevity. Japan is obviously afflicted by fewer lifestyle diseases. Whether obesity and cancer are caused by the same thing is unclear. Even if they are, pinpointing what exactly prevents the Japanese from becoming obese or cancerous is infinitely trickier. To claim it’s a lack of saturated fat is shockingly enough, just as unsubstantiated as saying it’s because they eat fewer calories or because they have black hair.
Maybe that’s why there was only one book on the subject at the bookstore.